Architectural historian and campaigner for built heritage, Clementine Cecil looks beyond the tourist sites of Russia's chief cities and shares her experiences of them . Cecil describes the special atmosphere of each city, with reference to local attitudes and the less well-known aspects of their architectures. Cecil considers the interaction between the grand and the ordinary in both cities, and the places in between - the streets, the courtyards, the alleyways. Important but less well known sites in Moscow include VDNKh (the all-Russian Exhibition Centre) a playground of styles from Stalinist Classicism to Post-War Modernism, Constructivist era buildings such as the Nikolaev Hostel, and some unusual house-museums. St Petersburg conceals a whole other city behind its classical facades: a city of courtyards, industrial buildings and crumbling palaces.